Thursday, 17 August 1944
Log of a Cycle Tour to North Wales, by Roy Spurgeon, with Leslie Lee. 16 August 18 August
A very forbidding morning. Low cloud persisted over the hills and we noticed that they seemed to follow the ridge to the north of the Dovey estuary, where the sky was very black. We anticipated rain, for the warden had told me previously that it was often fine at Taliesin when it rained in the North, because the ridge of hills between the Dovey estuary and Happy Valley beyond it seemed to prevent the clouds from spreading south.
He was right, at first anyway. We left Taliesin at 1040 hours (4115.4) after a cold but nevertheless satisfying breakfast and headed back to Machynlleth. We had hoped to avoid this by taking the ferry across the mouth of the Dovey but unfortunately the service had long since been suspended owing to the shortage of petrol, so we had to go into Macnynlleth in order to cross the river by bridge. We reached the town for the second time at 1130 hours (4124.8) and took the opportunity to buy some of our rations, just in case!
Machynlleth is situated in the middle of the Dovey valley about a mile to the south of the river (see photos). It is a fairly large old town and has been the scene of many historic events. In 1402, a Welsh parliament was held there and Owen Glendower was crowned King of Wales in one of its buildings. Leaving again at 1155 hours, we headed back westwards along the north side of the estuary in Merionethshire. This road follows the edge of the estuary but is quite hilly and it was from one of its sharp rises that we got our first view of the sea. In fact the view all along this road was extremely attractive; the tide was low in the estuary, exposing very large stretches of virgin yellow sand lying below us, entirely unspoilt by man. The cliffs fell away sheer from the road down to the single line railway cut into them only a few feet above the sea while the ripples on the sand bar at the extreme mouth of the river cut a line of silver across the blue sea.
Soon we ran down into the small pleasure resort of Aberdovey at 1305 hours (4134.5). We had passed through a number of sharp showers on our way, but as soon as we came in sight of the sea, the clouds lifted and the weather cleared to bright sunshine. Aberdovey is a very pleasant little place (see photo) with several hotels on the front and a small jetty, to which a balloon ship was made fast. We found a cafe which provided us with an excellent cold lunch and were able to watch a number of "Dukws" going from road to water and vice versa, the first either of us had ever seen. Leaving at 1415 hours, after having explored the jetty, we set course up the coast road for Barmouth. This was a glorious run, for there was a strong south west wind behind us and the sea was in view on our left nearly the whole time. Having rounded the point above the Aberdovey Bar, we headed north and ran into the small town of Towyn at 1440 hours (4139.8). We left the main road, for Towyn is set back from the sea, and went through the town right down to the front, passing the airfield on the way.
We regained the main road, after riding along the very broad and apparently quite new promenade, by crossing the railway on a footpath. The road headed inland separated from the sea by quite extensive sand dunes on which numerous "Dukws" were practising, and soon took us across the Dyffryn Dysynni, a pretty little river, and out to the coast again. We passed through the villages of Llanegryn (see photo), Llangelynin and Llwyngwril, all consisting of grey stone and slate buildings, until we reached the south side of the Afon Mawddach estuary opposite Barmouth. At places, this road was cut into the side of the hills immediately above the sea and it was possible to identify spots where it had once given way and had been rebuilt.
The mouth of the Aron Mawddach is very wide, but is spanned by a long railway bridge (see photo) and we were able to obviate the necessity of going right up the estuary to Dolgelley in order to cross it by taking advantage of the footway by the side of the railway. We turned off the main road, crossed two sets of railway lines, went right along the platform at Barmouth Junction station and emerged upon the embankment forming the approach to the bridge. Owing to the roughness of the path, we were forced at places to digress on to the sand at the bottom of the embankment. This provided us with a lot of fun, the sand being one of the finest stretches I have seen, and, being quite loose, we had difficulty in staying on our cycles.
However, coming back on to the roadway again, we crossed the bridge and climbed up into the town of Barmouth, having very nearly succeeded in getting across the bridge while the toll collector was looking the other way (quite accidentally - we didn't know it was a toll bridge). We reached Barmouth, a very pleasantly situated place with quite a fair size harbour and front, at 1605 hours (4153.8). The town is built on the side of the hills, overlooking Barmouth Bay, the older part being built on top of the cliffs and, looking back, we could see the peak of Cader Idris 2927 feet high, to the east (see photo). We were beginning to feel a little hungry at this juncture so we made our way down to the beach and ate some bread and cheese, etc. from our rations.
We left at 1640 hours and, with a strong wind still behind us, we rode almost due north up the coast again. The road gradually left the sea further and further to our left as we passed through the villages of Llanaber, Llanenddwyn and Llanbedr, passing a small deserted airfield on the very flat stretch of land between the road and the sea, till we began to climb up the side of the hill on our right and suddenly came upon the sea again right below us.
From here we obtained a wonderful view across Tremadoc Bay. We climbed steadily until we came to Harlech, that old Welsh town famous for its once mighty castle, built on the side of the hills on the seaward side of the road. We had little time to spare for sight seeing, however, so we pushed straight on, running downhill again and leaving the coast as the road led inland to skirt the wide estuary formed by the mouths of the Afon Glaslyn and the Afon Dwyryd, known as the Traeth Bach. We were soon travelling due east by the side of the Afon Dwyryd which runs through large stretches of perfect sand, between sides composed of ragged rocks covered with purple heather, a very pretty ride indeed. Further up, as we approached the Vale of Ffestiniog, the hills were densely wooded and although the clouds often obscured their summits, they provided a wonderful view.
We carried on to Maentwrog (see photo), a small village in the heart of the Vale of Ffestiniog, and then began to climb towards the village of Ffestiniog itself. The last mile or so of the climb is very steep and we had to walk up a good deal of it. Reaching the centre of Ffestiniog, which stands right on top of the hills (see photo), we passed through it, down the road to the adjacent village of Blaenau Ffestiniog and then turned off left for the Hostel, which we reached at 1655 hours (4177.3).
Ffestiniog Hostel is a very good one, a very large old country mansion standing in its own very spacious grounds, all well wooded. From the common room window a magnificent view of the valley below and of the 2500 feet high Moelwyn peaks on the opposite side can be obtained (clouds permitting). Ffestiniog being a "no meals provided" hostel, we had booked our meals in the village, so we lost no time, after signing in, before climbing back into the village for a well cooked supper. A short stroll and an excellent glass of cider completed another day and we returned to the Hostel for bed.
Total cycling distance for the day - 62.9 miles.
Next day: 18 August