Friday, 25 August 1944
Log of a Cycle Tour to North Wales, by Roy Spurgeon, with Leslie Lee. 24 August 26 August
The weather in the morning didn't look too promising as the sky was overcast with low grey cloud. We were just about to leave when I discovered I had another puncture and, as a result, we did not get away before 1110 hours (4424.8). We retraced our path down the hill into Rugeley again, in order to rejoin the main road and, on the way down, Leslie broke one of his toe clips. We found a cycle shop in the town and on making enquiries, the man in charge said, "Just a moment, I can't hear you." He then crossed the shop, switched on the electric light so that he might hear better and then asked Leslie to repeat his request. After all this, of course, there were no toe clips.
Leaving Rugeley, we headed south east to Lichfield on the continuation of the same road that we had followed the day before. By the time we reached the small city of Lichfield, 1220 hours (4436.2), after a fast, flat ride, we were feeling hungry and once more we were lucky in getting some lunch first time, at a small cafe on the outskirts, where we obtained an excellent meal. In the meantime, the clouds had broken and it looked as though the rest of the day might well be fine, as indeed proved to be the case. Coming out of the cafe, we went into Lichfield proper and seeing the cathedral on the left hand side, we left the road to inspect it. This beautiful edifice (see photo), which stands on the site of the original building, first constructed in about 770, dates back to the 14th and 15th Centuries. The front wall contains many excellent stone carvings of full length statues of the kings and saints of Britain and the interior is equally interesting and dignified. There are three tall spires and some fine stained glass windows in the building. We spent some time in the cathedral and then toured the rest of the town, a pleasant place with a number of well laid-out gardens and several very old houses (see photo). It was the birthplace of the famous Samuel Johnson and is now mainly an agricultural centre.
We left Lichfield at 1400 hours and set course, still south eastwards, for Tamworth. Again, the ride was very flat and pleasant, but somewhat marred by our becoming mixed up with a number of huge tank transporters, going in our direction, with which we played "hide and seek" (much against our will, for they took up all the road nearly) all the way to Tamworth, which we reached at 1450 hours (4446.2). Tamworth did not seem to be a very inspiring place as we went into it, but upon further investigation, proved much more attractive. We entered the shopping centre while the local radio shop was moaning, "Don't ask me why I'm weeping", so we didn't bother, but saw the old market hall, built in 1701. Nearby, Les was able to buy, and subsequently fit, a new toe clip and we then left on the road to Coleshill at 1510 hours.
We passed Tamworth Castle (see photo), built of red sandstone, on the outskirts of the town, then crossed the River Tame and several canals on our way almost due south. About two miles out of the town, we crossed Watling Street, at this point part of the Holyhead road (A.5), that we had last encountered at Bettws-y-Coed, and shortly afterwards we crossed the border of Staffordshire into Warwickshire. Carrying on, still in very flat country, we reached Coleshill at 1610 hours. This small town, we found, has a very steep high street and, while climbing up it, we looked for tea. In almost the last shop, right at the top of the hill, we found it. Next door to the tea shop was a house, interesting because its "ancient lights", bricked up recesses which had once been windows, were painted to resemble real windows, lines having been painted on the bricks to represent the window frames. This had been so skillfully done that the whole effect was to improve the appearance of the building from the exterior considerably. High on the hill, with its spires standing out on the horizon, was Coleshill's old parish church (see photo).
We left Coleshill at 1705 hours, heading first south and then south east for Kenilworth. On this leg of the journey, the wind, which had been blowing quite strongly in our faces all day, seemed to have abated slightly and we made very good progress. This stretch, planned so that we should avoid the two great, smoky industrial areas of Coventry and Birmingham between which it ran, was undoubtedly the most pleasant of the day's run. The country gradually became more wooded and hilly while, for quite a long distance, we rode with the River Blythe just alongside the road. Just before crossing this river, we saw a particularly pretty little cottage lying back from the road. With a beautifully thatched roof, its whitewashed walls were smothered with ivy and its large garden was one mass of antirrhinums of all shapes, sizes and colours, the whole combining to give a wonderful yet neat and tidy splash of colour in the midst of the surrounding countryside.
At 1815 hours (4470.8), we arrived at Kenilworth Castle, which we had sighted in the distance some time previously, its red sandstone ruins standing out above the flat terrain which surrounds it. The walls, which were begun in 1120 by Geoffrey de Clinton, enclose an area of about seven acres and are in good condition. The interior of the castle was built and improved by various kings of England until, in 1266, when in the possession of Simon de Montfort, a six months siege was needed to capture it. Subsequently, various additions were made to its fortifications, particularly by John of Gaunt, but unfortunately, in later years, it was badly damaged by its Puritan garrison during the Civil Wars.
Having spent about half an hour in a rapid but thorough investigation of the magnificent ruins, from the top of which a wonderful view of the surrounding country can be obtained, we set off again at 1845 hours and soon reached the town of Kenilworth. This is also a most attractive place, nearly all its houses being built of red brick with black Tudor-type beams and red tiled roofs (see photo). Unfortunately, all the larger shops were closed when we arrived so we did not stop for long, but carried on due south for Warwick.
Passing through the small village of Leek Wootton, we reached Warwick at 1930 hours (4477.6) and made straight for the Hostel. The historic town of Warwick is a large and fascinating place, situated for the most part on a fairly high hill. The Hostel is a big stone building, quite large and roomy but not very well kept; it commands a fine view to the west as it is situated on the side of the hill, near the top. After signing in, we set out again for supper, none being provided in the Hostel and were directed to a fish and chip shop, where we secured a good (and cheap) meal. We then returned to the Hostel and spent the remaining time before bed indoors.
Total cycling distance for the day - 52.8 miles
Next day: 26 August